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Producers of authentic Serrano ham challenge the proposal made by the Government and the main meat employers to appropriate the term: "They are going to put it doubled over to the consumer"

The big meat industry and the Ministry of Agriculture claim that the serrano ham in Spain is awarded the quality seal Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), a distinction European level just behind the Designation of Origin (PDO). The project, coveted for years by the meat employers' association, was presented and published in the Official State Gazette a few weeks ago by the Government, setting off alarms within the sector, in which it was branded a "scam”, Well, the ham will not have to be from the sierra or Spanish or of quality.

The proposed specification -that is, the requirements that a product would have to meet to be able to put the PGI seal on it- would allow - in case of receiving the approval of Europe - that pig feet from any country in the world and cured in only seven months artificially in any environment -even in coastal places- are offered to the consumer as a genuine serrano ham from Spain.

In fact, these types of practices that pursue economic benefit apart from excellence are already being carried out. A good part of the hams cured in Spain currently come from pigs raised in other countries, many from eastern Europe, where the high rates of swine flu lower the price of their meat. This is transported 'in blood' by freezer trucks to be cured in industrial dryers and sold as authentic Spanish serrano ham at the price of mortadella without properly informing the buyer of its true origin or of the defrosting process that it undergoes and sometimes causes the appearance of worms.

Vietnamese Serrano Ham

The breed of the pig used to obtain a product that would have this quality seal endorsed by the European Union will not even be taken into account. The proposal only establishes that the ham will come from “healthy and well-fed pigs”. Therefore, a Vietnamese pork leg could be perfectly used to make a supposed Spanish serrano ham, a product that already has the consideration of Traditional Specialty Guaranteed (TSG). "The consumer is going to get it doubled," expert sources warn Vozpópuli.

The proposal has been promoted by the group of ham holders of the National Association of Meat Industries of Spain (Anice), the main meat employer, made up of some of the most important companies in the fourth largest industry in Spain after the sector automobile, fuels and electricity. And all at the height of pork production, when pork exports have practically doubled in less than a decade and farms continue to expand throughout the national geography.

The proposal of the PGI Jamón Serrano de España considers that any part of the country is conducive to producing this quality product, including the Canary and Balearic Islands

The idea of ​​obtaining a PGI that recognizes the Serrano ham from Spain has been long. Years ago, the European Union already overthrew a technical proposal that has undergone various modifications to become the current one, which omits any reference to specific geographical and climatological aspects, as was originally intended. Now they base their claim to this quality seal due to a question of the "reputation" of Spanish Serrano ham, for which they consider the whole of Spain would be valid to produce quality Serrano ham, including the Canary Islands and the Balearic Islands, except for Ceuta and Melilla.

Thus, the Spanish Jamón Serrano PGI would become the first to achieve a national dimension. Until now, the European institutions have maintained the principle of "restricting" the delivery of stamps "to those agricultural or food products whose characteristics are intrinsically linked to their geographical origin ", as stated in Community Regulation 1151/2012 by which they are regulated the PDO, PGI and TSG seal in order to "assure farmers and producers a fair income due to the qualities and characteristics of a given product or its production method, and to offer clear information on products with specific characteristics linked to a geographical origin ".

Devaluation of existing PDO and PGI quality seals

The proposal, criticized by expert sources in the sector, supposes "a devaluation for the consumer of the existing quality figures", both for the PDO or PGI seals: to the first belong the hams from Guijuelo (Salamanca), Dehesa de Extremadura, Los Pedroches (Badajoz), Jabugo (Huelva) and Teruel, distinguished by their Iberian ham except for the latter, and in the second group are the Serrano hams from Serón (Almería) and Trevélez (Granada). Their proven reputation, they say, is what has made it possible to revalue Spanish Serrano ham.

The Trevélez Ham Producers Association believes that a "generic" PGI subject to such a "wide geographic scope" can "confuse" the consumer

It is precisely there, in the Alpujarras of ancient rebellions, where the proposal has encountered significant opposition. The secretary of the Trevélez Ham Producers Association, Pilar Álvarez, believes the approval of a "generic" PGI and subject to such a wide geographic scope "can" confuse " the consumer," who understands that it has been developed in a artisanal and that has special characteristics related to a local process, which is sustainable and inherited from generation to generation, which also avoids depopulation in rural areas ".

The producers from Granada also denounce the comparative offense that the approval of the Spanish Jamón Serrano PGI would entail, whose specifications would only require seven months of curing, ten less than those required, for example, Trevélez pieces, and despite what it would tell with the same quality seal. "In the same territory, two PGIs with two specifications would overlap, one stricter and the other laxer, and that would lead many companies to choose," warns Pilar Álvarez, who fears that they will opt for the easiest and most beneficial option in detriment to quality.

"In the same territory, two IGPs with two specifications would overlap, one stricter and the other laxer, and that would lead many companies to choose"

"We would be doomed to dissolution", predicts the secretary of the Association of Ham Producers of Trevélez, an area of ​​the Granada Alpujarra mountains that can boast of a long and reputed tradition in the curing of hams. Not surprisingly, Queen Elizabeth II awarded this region in 1862 recognition for the good work of its producers in an optimal environment for drying hams that since then have been accompanied by the stamping of a crown that recognizes quality, in force in the actuality.

Opposition of Granada or Portugal

Experts also question whether Serrano ham can be considered exclusive to Spain and insist that similar products exist in many countries around the world, placing emphasis on Portugal, where the 'presumed do monte' also has a history own. In fact, as El Economista advanced last week, some Portuguese producers are willing to fight the legal battle with allegations against Spain's proposal to appropriate the Serrano ham.

The deadline to present opposition to the Spanish Jamón Serrano PGI expired this past Friday. It has not only been done from outside our borders, but also within, and even by the administrations themselves. The Diputación de Granada has challenged the proposal, as have municipalities and associations. The provincial institution has been one of the most critical and a few days ago it issued an institutional statement in which it frontally rejects the claim to approve a PGI that equates a ham produced in dubious conditions with another from Trevélez: "The differences are obvious."

The Diputación de Granada, where the Jamón de Trevélez IGP is located, has challenged the project and issued an institutional statement with the support of all parties to reject the meat industry plan

"We must indicate that Jamón Serrano is not a name that identifies a product as originating from a specific place, a region or a country. This contradicts the current recognition that Jamón Serrano has as a Guaranteed Traditional Specialty (TSG)", he says the Provincial Council: "Consumers understand that it is a product produced in the Sierra de la Alpujarra (in Granada, and whose highest municipality is Trevélez) and that it owes its specificity to the natural and human factors present in said limited and homogeneous area (very definition of IGP) ".

Faced with this conception, "in the case of Serrano Ham, what consumers understand is that it is a product obtained according to a traditional production method, without linking it to a particular geographical area (hence the area defined in the Specifications of the alleged PGI Serrano Ham is, nothing less, than the entire Spanish territory) ", ditch the Diputación de Granada.

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